Deck-staining that can't fail
Look for product that resists water, mildew
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
Q: I have a deck that was built in October 2006. Does it need to be stained this soon? This will be my first deck-staining experience, and I was also wondering what things to be aware of, and if there are any suggestions for easier application, especially on the posts and railings. --Margaret M.
A: Staining a deck offers lots of advantages, and I recommend doing a new deck as soon as the wood has dried and settled in. Yours could be done at any time the weather conditions are appropriate, and should be repeated every couple of years, depending on weather conditions.
A good deck stain will penetrate into the wood, where it offers moisture protection by helping the wood to shed water. This prolongs the life of the wood, and helps prevent splintering and loosening around fasteners. The stain also provides protection from the sun's ultraviolet rays, which also helps prevent drying and fading of the wood. Finally, the stain helps you preserve the original color of the deck, or lets you change, enhance or restore color as desired.
Deck stains are different from the type of wood stain you would use to stain a woodworking project. Look for a name-brand product specifically formulated for exterior deck use. It should have UV protection, water resistance and mildew resistance. You can select from a transparent stain, which is either natural or has relatively subtle wood-tone pigments to enhance the natural look of the wood, or semi-transparent stains that have more pigment.
If you like the look of the wood as is, choose a natural color. If you want to enhance the color a little or if it's started to fade at all, your best bet is to choose a color that matches the type of wood on the deck -- for example, redwood or cedar. Left untreated, most non-pressure-treated woods will fade to a shade of gray, and if you like that color there are deck stains that will emulate that as well.
Before applying the stain, make sure the deck is as clean and dust-free as possible. Do not apply when the wood is too hot to touch comfortably, or if it has rained recently and the deck is still damp. Mix the stain thoroughly in the can, and if you are using more than one can, be sure and intermix the cans to ensure a consistent color.
The stain can be applied with a brush or a roller for the large flat surfaces. For posts and railings, you can use a pump-up garden sprayer (make sure it's a sprayer that will be dedicated to the purpose, so that the stain is never intermingled with pesticides, herbicides, or anything else you might use the sprayer for). The sprayer simplifies the application and you shouldn't have too much overspray, although you do want to be sure and cover landscaping and anything else you don't want the stain to get on. For really large decks, you might consider renting an airless paint sprayer for the entire project.
Complete mixing, application and safety instructions will be on the can, and they can vary between manufacturers so be sure and read them over carefully.
Q: About six years ago, I had my house painted with Valspar paint. Shortly thereafter, I had a humidifier added to my furnace and have kept it at about 40 percent. I noticed yellowish-brown marks running down my walls, especially in the bathrooms and across from air ducts. I called Valspar and was told that some pigments in paint will cause this. Now I want to have my house re-painted and I was wondering if you have heard of this problem. I know the walls will have to be washed first but wonder if a primer should be used. --Pat J.
A: I have not heard of this specific problem, but if Valspar says it could be a problem with the pigment in the paint, I would suggest contacting them again (or contacting the paint store where you purchased the paint) and asking for a product representative to come out to your home and analyze the situation. This is a free service, and should be very helpful in determining the exact cause of the problem.
I would definitely agree that the walls need to be washed first, and a stain-blocking primer will be helpful in covering the streaks prior to repainting, and will also help the finish coat adhere better. However, if there is an underlying problem that is preventing the first coat of paint from adhering to the walls, then primer won't help. You need to get to the root of the problem first, and that's where the product rep will definitely help.
Fed lowers rates, hints cuts may be at end - May 1, 2008
The Federal Reserve cut the federal funds rate by a quarter of a point to 2 percent on Wednesday, the latest – and
possibly last – in a series of reductions aimed at staving off a recession and easing the credit crunch.
Keep this in mind…
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In September, when the Fed initiated the first of seven consecutive interest rate reductions, the federal funds
rates stood at 3.25 percent. The last time the rate was this low was in December 2004.
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In making the announcement, the Fed noted that, “The substantial easing of monetary policy to date, combined
with ongoing measures to foster market liquidity, should help to promote moderate growth over time and to
mitigate risks to economic activity.”
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There was some speculation that the Fed was leaving the door open to additional rate cuts if inflation concerns
become reality. However, others speculate the Board may leave rates alone until the impact of its recent efforts
become clearer
MAKING SENSE OF THE STORY FOR CONSUMERS
- Many Adjustable Rate Mortgages (ARMs) start with a lower introductory rate that adjusts periodically (typically once a year for prime loans, twice a year for subprime loans) after an initial period of two, three, five or 10 years. ARMs generally are tied to a Treasury or London Interbank (Libor) index, with the mortgage rate typically set at 2 to 6 percentage points above that index rate.
- The good news is that Libor rates have been stable, thanks in part to the actions of the Federal Reserve to lower interest rates. For example: Let’s say a borrower in Spring 2006 obtained a mortgage indexed at five points above Libor (then at around 5 percent). That would have meant an indexed rate at that time of 10 percent. However, a two-year introductory rate capped the payment at 8 percent. As of last week, Libor was at 3.08 percent, which means this fictional mortgage would reset at 8.08 today – only a slight change for the borrower.
- Without the Fed’s rate cuts, more than $100 billion in subprime ARMs would have jumped at least two percentage points. Now, only about $60 billion in these mortgages will adjust up by more than two points.
Story published by C.A.R. Market Matters 5/1/08
Two-day, $2,000 room makeover not reality
Behind the scenes of home-improvement TV shows
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
Q: When I watch those TV reality shows about room makeovers, I wonder if there is anything "real" about them. Can you really do a complete makeover in two days with $2,000? --Gayle K.
A: Yes and no -- and therein lies the problem of the contradictions and false expectations of some of these phenomenally popular reality home-improvement shows.
On the positive side, these shows can provide viewers with a tremendous wealth of information and ideas for redoing rooms that they might not have the experience or imagination to come up with on their own. If you're looking to give a complete new look to a bedroom through the addition of some interesting new paint colors, new window coverings, some moldings, the revamping of some existing furniture and maybe building a simple bookshelf, that is indeed possible to do in two days with $2,000 -- but not by the average homeowner.
The kind of accelerated pace depicted on these shows requires that absolutely everything has been thoroughly planned in advance and meticulously organized, and that all of the materials have been prepurchased and are waiting on-site. Remember also that the $2,000 budget is for materials only -- often purchased at heavy discounts -- and that the very expensive fees, salaries and services of the on-site decorators, the highly skilled carpenters, the supervisors and coordinators, the delivery services, the cranes, the rental equipment, the professional shoppers, and all the rest of the vast network of other peripheral people and companies are not coming out of that money.
Reality home-improvement shows are great, but viewers really need to realize that this is not reality. For example, the average homeowner certainly will not have a building inspector standing by to blitz through (or waive) inspections on a moment's notice, and they won't have access to all of the hundreds of off-camera personnel and all of the freebies that these shows have to rely on.
One of the problems today is that we have become a society of instant gratification, and these shows play into that. They raise false expectations of what is possible for contractors and especially do-it-yourselfers to accomplish, and while I think the average homeowner understands that they won't be able to have a crew of 75 people re-roof their house in an hour or get the local fire department to fill their swimming pool, they probably don't always understand that many of the other instantaneous makeovers they see materialize on the screen are virtually impossible in real life as well.
I would strongly advise homeowners to enjoy these shows for their entertainment value, and for the lessons they provide on how colors interact, or how a simple bookcase or the rearrangement of some furniture can make a huge difference in a room's flow. But don't take these shows as a glimpse of reality, and don't expect that you or your contractor can perform the same feats of magic without a very extensive -- and very expensive -- infrastructure to back you up.
Q: I would like to have insulation blown into my exterior walls. What can you tell me about compaction and settling, and about the lack of a vapor barrier? --Gilbert M.
A: Most of the information and studies I have seen on this subject has shown a good success rate for retrofitted wall insulation, providing the installation is done properly. The most common material used for this process is cellulose, since it is dense enough to completely fill the cavities without sagging, but it does not tend to get hung up on nails and other obstructions inside the wall the way that blown fiber materials such as fiberglass and mineral wool might do.
As to the vapor barrier, in the average home the application of a semi-gloss paint or a specialized vapor-barrier paint or primer to the inside of the exterior walls is typically enough protection. Talk with an experienced paint store for recommendations on paints with low vapor permeability -- in other words, ones that form a film that will not allow moisture to pass through it easily.
All that being said, there are definitely some potential problems associated with blowing insulation into sealed wall cavities, including possible moisture problems and even damage to electrical wiring. Whenever possible, wall insulation should be done while the wall cavities are open. If that's impossible, be sure to talk with a licensed and bonded insulation contractor with specific experience in retrofitting wall insulation, check on their references and warranties, and contact the manufacturer of whatever insulation product they are using to get additional technical information, precautions and other information specifically related to retrofitting in walls.
Kitchen is no place to skimp on lighting
Brightening tips to make cooking, cleaning even more fun
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
When it comes to lighting, few places in the home are more important than the kitchen. From general lighting to specific task lighting, a well-designed lighting plan makes the use and enjoyment of any kitchen a much brighter undertaking.
GENERAL LIGHTING
General lighting is what comes on as you first enter the room. It should brighten up the room well enough that you can see to enter and move around the room, and to perform basic tasks, such as getting something out of the refrigerator.
In many kitchens, general lighting is accomplished with one or two incandescent or fluorescent light fixtures, or by a group of recessed can lights. The general lighting fixtures should be controlled by a switch that is easily accessible as soon as you approach or first enter the room. If there are two entrances to the room, the same group of fixtures can be controlled from both locations using a 3-way switch.
TASK LIGHTING
Task lighting, on the other hand, comes from fixtures that are strategically placed to provide good lighting for performing specific operations, such as cooking or cleaning up. Since the general lighting sources are located high up on the ceiling and behind you wherever you are in the room, your body typically blocks or shadows some of that light, which is why specific lighting fixtures dedicated to specific areas are so important. Task lighting may be in the form of recessed cans, fluorescent fixtures, halogen lights, or any combination. To conserve energy and prevent overlighting or overheating the room, activation of the task lighting is generally broken up between several switches.
To lay out your task lighting, first envision how the kitchen will be used. One or more fixtures should be located over the sink, to provide direct overhead lighting for cleanup and food preparation. Recessed lights work well here, as they can be directed very specifically to light the sink. The over-sink fixture should be on its own switch.
Cooking tasks require their own light source as well. If you have a range hood that is located above your cooktop or range, the light that is located within the hood may be sufficient, or you can add a recessed fixture to the ceiling that is located to provide as much direct light down onto the cooking surface as possible. The fixture in the hood will have its own switch, and any other specific cooking area light should be separately switched as well.
Islands can present another task lighting challenge. Here again, recessed fixtures can be used to good advantage to light up the island, or you can consider one or more hanging pendant lights over the area. Some lighting designs will have the island lights come on as part of the general lighting, but most will target these lights with separate switches as well.
One kitchen lighting area that is extremely important but often overlooked are the counters. Between the combination of your body as you stand at the counter and the bulk of the wall cabinets, much of the counter area is severely shadowed, and yet this is where much of the work in the kitchen is done.
To overcome this, specific under-cabinet lighting is used. Perhaps the most common source are shallow fluorescent fixtures that are mounted to the underside of the upper cabinets. These under-cabinet lights come in a number of different lengths to make it easy to match the fixtures to the cabinet layout, and you should use an adequate number of them to provide even, shadow-free lighting on all the counters.
Small halogen fixtures, typically called puck lights for their resemblance to small hockey pucks, are also sometimes used in these areas. Puck lights are brighter, but may put out too much glare or too much heat in some areas, so take that into consideration as well.
Here again, you want to divide up the under-cabinet fixtures onto one or more specific switches. What usually works best is to envision how the counters will be used, and then group the fixture switching so that the desired counter or group of counters are lit at the same time. For example, if you regularly use one section of counter for food preparation, all the under-cabinet lighting over that section of counter should be on the same switch.
All of these fixtures should be available from local lighting stores, electrical supply retailers, and home centers. Remember to use only UL-listed fixtures and parts, and always consult with a qualified electrician for assistance on any wiring project you're not comfortable with.
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Changing out windows tricky with aluminum siding
Homeowner seeks advice on quality vinyl products
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
Q: We have aluminum siding and single-pane aluminum windows. We would like to replace the old windows with new vinyl ones, but were wondering if that's possible with the aluminum siding. Also, how do we find a quality window? --Hugh S.
A: The difficulty in replacing windows in homes with aluminum siding has to do with how the windows were originally installed. Aluminum windows are usually installed by attaching them through a flange to the wall framing, and then the flange is covered with the siding. To reach the flange, you need to remove the aluminum siding trim around the window, but that may prove difficult. You can also cut the siding back far enough to reach the flange, and then install new trim around the new window.
The third option is to cut between the side of the window frame and the edge of the siding with a metal-cutting reciprocating saw, which will cut through the installation flange and releasing the window. All of these operations really should be performed by an experienced, licensed contractor.
Once the old window is out, any window company can make up new vinyl windows that will exactly fit the opening. As to quality, you want to look for a wide air space between the panes, and good weatherstripping, solid latches and smooth operation on operable windows. I would contact an experienced window dealer in your area -- stay away from the home centers and lumberyards on this one -- and have them come out to look at your home and discuss your options. Also, ask to see a house where they have done a similar installation. That way you can see the quality of both the window and their workmanship.
Q: Your column is one of my favorites, and now I have a question for you. We live in a retirement community and are having trouble with moisture in our indoor pool and spa area. Some members want to put in a hot air heating system to eliminate the problem. Will a gas furnace do this? --Francis G.
A: Theoretically, the installation of a gas-fired heating system will help to some degree. Any appliance that burns a fuel -- gas, wood, oil, etc. -- utilizes oxygen in the combustion process, so it pulls in room air to support the burning and tends to remove some of the room's existing moisture in the process.
This would not, however, be the proper solution for the situation you describe, since the amount of moisture being removed would not be sufficient to alleviate the problem. Also, the amount of moisture removal could not be regulated, and wouldn't be occurring at all when the furnace is off. What you need instead is a ventilation system that is properly sized to the area of the pool room and the amount of moisture being generated. This will remove the moist air from the room properly and under complete control.
I would strongly recommend that you contact an experienced commercial heating and ventilation contractor in your area. They can evaluate the room and the existing building, and assist you with a ventilation system that will meet your needs.
Q: Is there any reference delineating the pros and cons of different types of vents for ventilating an attic? --Todd A.
A: There have been numerous studies done over the years about attic ventilation with different types of vents, but what I have seen and read does not indicate any substantive differences in vent types, other than appearance. As long as you are meeting the required amount of ventilation area for your particular attic, the choice primarily comes down to one of aesthetics. Some people like the continuous ridge vents since they are more hidden under the ridge shingles; others like gable-end vents because they offer a large vent area, they don't require cutting into the roof, and there are some great shapes and styles available that can do a lot to complement the exterior of the house.
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Why Choose a Tech-Savvy Agent?
When you choose a real estate agent, you’re selecting someone to represent you in one of the largest financial transactions you may ever undertake.
As the internet continues to simplify the way people research buying and selling homes, there are many good reasons to choose an agent who can harness the power of technology to provide you with exceptional service, including:
· Providing you with an online home evaluation every 6 months to stay on top of current market value.
. Providing you with monthly local real estate updates
· Emailing new home listings to you as soon as desirable properties hit the market (when you're buying a new home)
· Delivering e-newsletters to keep you informed about market trends and other important matters (please sign up now if you're interested)
. Showcasing your home on the web (multiple websites) to help you sell it for top dollar.
· Sending up-to-date information by email for you to review at your convenience.
Whether you’re thinking about buying or selling or simply want to stay informed about the real estate market, using new technology helps me consistently provide you with timely information and outstanding service.
Please don’t hesitate to call or email me if I can help you.
Mortgage Rates Skyrocket (update as of 2/20/08)
Mortgage rates skyrocketed this week as investors fretted about a pickup in inflation.
The benchmark 30-year fixed-rate mortgage rose 41 basis points, to 6.37 percent, according to the Bankrate.com national survey of large lenders. A basis point is one-hundredth of 1 percentage point. The mortgages in this week's survey had an average total of 0.4 discount and origination points. One year ago, the mortgage index was 6.29 percent; four weeks ago, it was 5.57 percent. The 30-year fixed hasn't been this high since the middle of October, when it was near 6.5 percent.
The benchmark 15-year fixed-rate mortgage rose 41 basis points, to 5.87 percent. The benchmark 5/1 adjustable-rate mortgage rose 27 basis points, to 5.77 percent, and the 30-year fixed jumbo, for loans of more than $417,000, went up 39 basis points, to 7.55 percent.
Helpful Home Staging Tips
I have found from experience that the activity during the first two weeks a home is on the market tends to predict how long it will take to sell. Potential buyers eagerly jump on new homes on the market.
Here are some “staging” tips you might find helpful:
* Keep your home in “show shape.” Make sure that beds are made, dishes are in the dishwasher or put away, everything is picked up, and the kitchen and bathrooms sparkle.
* Decorate with fresh flowers. Many home sellers use potted flowering plants that last much longer than cut flowers. Place them inside and out. They really add cheer!
* Turn on lights; replace all burned-out bulbs. Open blinds and draperies. Let the natural light in.
* Confine pets and keep them out of sight when possible. They can be distracting, and some people have allergies.
* Create a relaxed atmosphere with soft background music.
I'll stay in touch. In the meantime, if you have any questions don't hesitate to call or email me.
Mortgage Rates Drop (update as of Jan 31)
Mortgage rates are lower now than they were in the fall, and people are taking advantage of the opportunity to refinance.
In the final three months of 2007, the average rate on a 30-year fixed was 6.29 percent in Bankrate's weekly survey. During the third quarter, the average rate was 6.6 percent. For many people who bought houses in 2006 and 2007, this month has been a chance to refinance. That especially goes for people who got adjustable-rate mortgages and who want to switch to fixed-rate loans.
According to the Mortgage Bankers Association, applications for refinances have gone up about 29 percent in the last four weeks. Some 73 percent of applicants last week were homeowners applying to refi. More than 90 percent of applicants wanted fixed-rate mortgages.
It's a great time to buy a new home or refinance your current mortgate!
For Sale By Owner - selling your house yourself
Negotiating
Selling your house should be treated as a business transaction, not a social event. Resist the urge to engage in extraneous conversation that may give too much information, thereby weakening your bargaining position.
In dealing with potential buyers, you have several objectives. First, make sure buyers are qualified. Second, review the offer and terms in their written contract. And third, provide buyers with a disclosure form if your state requires it.
Accepting a buyer's written contract creates a legal obligation, so it is in your best interest to have your attorney review it beforehand. Your attorney can advise you of the potential impact of any conditions such as financing, sale of the buyer's present home, inspection, and so on. After reviewing the contract, you may choose to accept it, submit a counteroffer, or decline it without a counter.
Often buyers will offer a lower price on a “For Sale by Owner” home because they know you aren't paying a real estate commission. The buyers want the savings passed on to them, yet you still have to do all the work.
The best negotiations are those with a win-win outcome, in which the buyer and seller feel the transaction was fair. The buyer gets a new home and you get to move on.
I'll be happy to answer any additional questions you might have about the negotiation process. Just call 310-918-5027 or email me at kmbaty@aol.com at your convenience.
Preparing Your House for Sale
Does Landscaping Add Value?
Whether you live in a condominium or a single-family house, landscaping can certainly make your home easier to sell. But will attractive landscaping add value? It depends.
Potted plants, freshly edged green lawn, and weed-free garden areas will make your home more attractive and appealing. The more appealing the home or condo, the more marketable it is and the faster it will sell.
Well-manicured landscaping helps frame other elements of curb appeal. It is considered a value-added feature because it helps create a positive first impression. Most buyers, however, will not pay extra for trees and lawn, flowers and shrubs.
But you can almost always get a return on your investment in decks and patios. As decks have become more desirable, their resale value has continued to increase.
In the yard and garden of your single-family home or in pots on your condo deck or patio, use plants, trees, and other landscaping elements freely to make your home more appealing and help you sell it more quickly when the time is right.
If you have any real estate–related questions, please call or email me. I am always happy to help.
Three must-haves for a good paint job
Without proper prep, finished product could be disaster
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
Paint preparation is one of the ugly sides of home-improvement projects. All that sanding and scraping and cleaning -- no one really likes to do it, but it's essential to a good paint job. So, like it or not, it's a step that you don't want to skip or do poorly, since the quality of your finished product pretty much depends on it.
There are three basic things to remember for properly preparing any surface that you want to paint -- get it clean, smooth and dry.
CLEAN IT UP
Paint will stick to most of the things it comes in contact with, which is not necessarily a good thing. If the surface being painted is dusty, for example, the paint will stick to the dust. Since the dust is not well-adhered to the surface below, you have an obvious recipe for paint failure.
It's important that the surface being painted has been cleaned to remove dust, dirt, grease and anything else that could get under the paint film and prevent it from forming a solid bond. For previously painted exterior surfaces, such as siding, dust everything off with a soft brush attached to a painter's extension pole. If the old paint is in generally good condition, you can also spray off the dust and dirt with a pressure washer that is set on low pressure and wide spray. Do not use high pressure or a concentrated spray nozzle, which can drive water into the siding.
For interior surfaces such as cabinets or moldings, dust the surface off with a brush to remove dust (use an inexpensive chip brush -- not your good paint brushes), then clean the surface with a degreaser to remove any grease residue. If the surface is glossy, lightly sand it to roughen it up slightly, then wipe or vacuum it off to remove any dust.
For new wood, such as new cabinets or furniture, your best bet is to use a tack cloth, available from any paint store or home center. A tack cloth is simply a piece of lint-free fabric that has been treated with a material to make it slightly sticky so that it will pick up fine dirt and dust particles.
A SOLID START
The same holds true for painting over old paint that is not well-adhered. The new paint film will stick to the old paint, and again, since that old paint is not attached to the surface below, the new paint job will eventually fail. There's simply no easy way to remove old paint, and you have four basic choices:
- Scraping: The tried and true method is to use a hand paint scraper and scrape off any loose paint. A pull-type scraper works best for most situations, and helps prevent gouging into the wood below. Scrape with the grain in both directions until all that remains is paint that is well-adhered to the underlying surface. For small areas, a push-type scraper, such as a putty knife, will work as well.
- Sanding: This is the other most common paint removal method, used alone or in combination with scraping. A pad sander works best for most situations, using an open-coat, coarse-grit paper for the initial paint removal. Avoid rotary sanders, which can gouge and raise the grain on some older siding, and belt sanders, which remove too much underlying material.
- Chemicals: For small areas, such as a piece of furniture, you can use a chemical stripper to remove paint, varnish and other finishes. Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully, and make sure you have adequate ventilation.
- Heat: Using a heat gun will work to remove paint in smaller areas, but it can be dangerous. You can damage the surface you're removing the paint from, and even worse, the heated paint film or the wood can catch fire. Skip this method.
Remember that a paint film is very thin, so whatever you've left on the surface is going to show through the new paint. Once you're done with the scraping and other paint removal work, sand the stripped areas with a medium to medium-fine grit of sandpaper to smooth out the wood and feather down the edges of any remaining paint.
DRY IT OUT
Preparation rule number three is that the surface to be painted needs to be dry. This applies to actual water that is standing on the surface being painted, as well as to material that is damp, such as wood that's been out in the weather. Any type of excessive moisture, either on or in the wood, can cause the paint to fail.
If you have pressure washed your siding, make sure it is completely dry before painting. Do not paint outside early in the day when moisture might be present on the wood, or on days of extremely high humidity. Inside, if you have washed the cabinets or other wood, they need to be completely dry again before applying the paint.
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Beware of kitchen-range fire hazard
Can fireproof material compensate for inadequate cabinet clearance?
By Paul Bianchina, Inman News
Q: I purchased a 27-inch, four-burner Wolf commercial range, with an oven, about 30 years ago. I was told when I purchased the range (commercial) that there should be at least six inches between the range and cabinets on both sides; the rear was tiled already. I had my kitchen remodeled in November 2006. Is there a way to protect my cabinets by installing any fireproofing products so that the range can set within the one or two inches against the cabinets, or should I tile the rear wall and the two sides next to the cabinets? --Fran K.
A: The required clearances for ranges will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, and even between models, but any commercial gas range will generate quite a bit of heat, and the rear, top and side clearances are critical to its safe operation. Also, adding ceramic tile directly over wood is not in and of itself adequate to create a noncombustible surface, due to the amount of heat transfer that occurs through the tile itself.
You will need to contact Wolf directly to find out what the specific clearances are for the model you have, and ask their technical department if there are any acceptable materials that can be used to reduce that clearance. However, due to the thickness of materials or material assemblies that can be considered noncombustible, it's doubtful you will be able to adequately cover the cabinets and still have clearance for the range to slip into the opening.
Incidentally, if the contractors that did the kitchen remodel did not comply with the appropriate clearances to meet the manufacturer's requirements, they have exposed you to danger and themselves to quite a bit of liability. Once you have spoken to Wolf and have obtained and checked the necessary clearances, if the current installation does not meet those clearances you need to have the contractor back out immediately.
Q: We have a charcoal-gray granite counter in our kitchen. We left a container with diluted bleach solution on the counter, and the container leaked. Now we have an area where the leak was that is slightly discolored and appears to have a somewhat duller finish. Do you have any recommendation on how to treat this area? --Ken G.
A: Granite is actually more porous than most people realize, and many installers will use a sealer on it to help prevent the granite from absorbing greases and oils. I suspect what has happened in your case is that the bleach penetrated whatever sealer was used when the granite was installed, which is what is accounting for the duller finish. Once it got through the sealer, it soaked into the marble slightly and bleached out some of the natural color in the stone.
It's hard to say if you are going to be able to get the color back completely, but I would recommend that you have an experienced granite installer take a look at it. Good installers have a variety of techniques they can use for blending colors -- they do it regularly to help conceal the seams where the pieces are put together -- and they may be able to do something here to bring back some of the color. They can definitely redo the sealer to get rid of the dull spot, and then re-polish the counters.
Check with any of the larger countertop shops that do granite installation, and they will have or be able to recommend a good installer for you.
Q: I purchased a synthetic deck last year and noticed (just like real wood) that it has faded. Can conventional deck stains be used in order to bring back the color? In addition, the manufacturer does not recommend cleaning the deck with a power washer thus, what is the best way to clean a synthetic deck? --Scott A.
A: You can clean the deck with hot soapy water and a stiff-bristle scrub brush. Many home centers have brush heads with a female thread that fit the male thread on the end of an extension pole -- the type of pole that fits a roller handle for painting -- so that will save you some stooping over.
After it's dry, you should be able to stain it with any type of stain that is suitable for wooden walking surfaces, such as a deck stain. I would check with the manufacturer of the decking you purchased to see if they have recommendations for specific brands of stain that work best with their product.
Speaking of manufacturers, if the deck is less than a year old, you may have some warranty issues with the fading. Before undertaking any re-staining, I would check with your dealer or directly with the manufacturer.
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Picking the right sander for the job
Great models priced from $40-$250
By Paul Bianchina
From removing old peeling paint to putting a glass-smooth finish on a new cabinet, sanding is a part of life for any do-it-yourselfer. It can be a tedious and dusty proposition at times, but luckily over the years many manufacturers have introduced power sanders to make the task easier and less messy.
Here's a look at the four main types of power sanders, along with some shopping tips for finding the one that works best for your specific applications.
Belt Sander: A belt sander is the largest and the most heavy-duty of the different power sanders. A belt sander utilizes a continuous sanding belt that is stretched over two drums, one of which is rotated by a powerful electric motor. The belt lays flat against the bottom of the sander as it rotates, creating a long, wide sanding surface that sands quickly and lessens the chance of gouging into the wood. Belt sanders are best suited for fast stock removal and also leveling out imperfections, and are used with the direction of the belt rotation parallel with the grain.
Belt sanders are specified by the size of the belt — which indicates the width and the overall length -- as well as the amperage of the motor, and when shopping you'll want to look for one that suits your job and your budget. Smaller sanders, such as Ryobi's 3-inch-by-18-inch (Model BE318-2, $49.95), is comfortable, light and easy to control, with a 5-amp motor that is well suited for light- to medium-duty use. Larger models, such as the massive 4-by-24-inch workhorse from Porter-Cable (Model 362VSK, $249), has a 12-amp motor and is designed for frequent, heavy-duty use.
Pad Sander: Also called a finishing sander, pad sanders have a flat square or rectangular pad located underneath the motor. The pad moves back and forth in a straight line, again for sanding with the direction of the grain, and the smaller sanding surface and lighter weight make these a good choice for finish sanding and paint removal on a wide variety of projects.
Pad sanders utilize standard sheets of sandpaper, which you'll need to cut to the proper size (precut sheets are also available for some sanders). The paper fits over a soft pad on the bottom of the sander that helps cushion the sanding motion, and is held in place by clips along two opposite sides of the pad.
Ridgid's 1/4-sheet sander (Model R2500, $44) is a good example of a versatile, well-designed pad sander for frequent use. It uses one-fourth of a standard sheet of sandpaper, and has a cushioned top and a conveniently located switch that makes the sander very comfortable for one-handed use, with minimal noise and vibration. Paper changing is easy -- something you definitely want to look for with a pad sander -- and the dust collection bag can be removed and the sander used with a shop vacuum hose instead.
Detail Sander: A detail sander is a smaller, lighter version of the pad sander, and as the name implies it is intended for taking care of the final detail sanding in those hard-to-reach places. Detail sanders typically have a pointed pad that can sand into corners, and often feature different attachments in a variety of shapes that can sand into the cracks and crevices that other sanders can't get into, such as moldings, spindles and inside drawers.
Black & Decker's new Mouse Sander/Polisher (Model MS600B, $39.99) is a very handy little detail sander, and incorporates a "feedback" system of lights that tells you when you're applying the proper amount of pressure for the surface you're sanding -- something that's very useful when putting the finishing touches on your project. It has soft-grip sides for great comfort, and a selection of sanding attachments to suit different applications.
Random Orbit Sander: A random orbit sander is in a class of its own, and can be used for anything from fast stock removal to fine finishing. Random orbit sanders look somewhat like pad sanders, with the sandpaper placed flat below the motor. However, the sandpaper pad spins in a circle while moving around in an oval pattern at the same time. This results in a random pattern of sanding that allows the sander to move across the grain without scratching.
Due to the circular motion, random orbit sanders utilize precut round sandpaper that is either 5 or 6 inches in diameter. A hook and loop system holds the paper securely to the bottom of the sanding pad, and also allows for fast paper changes.
A random orbit sander could easily become your favorite all-around home improvement sander. When shopping for one, look for a model such as Ridgid's 6-inch sander (Model R2611, $129.99) that offers additional versatility to make it that much more useful. The Ridgid sander has two unique orbit settings -- 1/8 inch for fine sanding and 1/4 inch for fast stock removal -- as well as a soft-grip rear handle and a removable front handle for comfort. It also has electronic variable speed to make it suitable for a variety of materials and uses, a comfortably low-vibration 4-amp motor, and a handy, on-board fitting that adapts the sander to either 1 1/4- or 2 1/2-inch shop vacuum hoses.
How to keep water flowing during remodel
Tips on setting up temporary water heater, sinks, toilets
By Paul Bianchina
The one consistent thing about remodeling your home is that it's disruptive. There's dust, disorganization and even periods without electricity. But perhaps the most disruptive element of all is being without water.
Prior to the start of any remodeling project, especially a large one, you need to stop and consider what your plumbing needs will be during the course of the project, and then devise a plan on how to meet those needs. Three of the most common disruptions include: permanently or temporarily moving the water heater; disconnecting sinks; and disconnecting toilets.
MOVING WATER HEATERS
If your plans include moving the water heater to a completely new location, that work should be completed first. This would include relocation of the water lines, relocation of the electrical circuit, and, in the case of a gas water heater, installation of a new gas line and vent. If possible, complete all the required building inspections on the new lines, then immediately complete the drywall, painting and even floor covering in the area where the water heater will go, even if that's out of sequence with the rest of the project. That will allow you to install the water heater in its new location and discontinue the old location with a minimum of disruption.
If the water heater will remain in its current location but needs to be moved out of the way temporarily while work in that area is completed, your best bet is to set the water heater up temporarily in a new location. Choose a spot that is as close to the existing location as possible, then extend temporary water lines to that location using copper or plastic pipe, and extend any gas lines using a length of black pipe and/or flex lines that are approved for gas. Electrical circuits can be connected by extending a length of wire from the end of the existing circuit to the temporary location -- remember to use the proper gauge of wire and approved wire connectors.
In the case of a natural gas or propane water heater, remember that the water heater MUST be vented to the outside -- failure to do so can cause potentially deadly concentrations of carbon monoxide to build up in the house. Use pipe that is approved for gas appliance venting, and route it to a location that is well away from operable windows, vents or any opening that could potentially bring exhaust gasses back into the house.
TEMPORARY SINKS
If you've had to remove a bathroom or kitchen sink in order to reroute plumbing or install new cabinets, you can often rig up a sink installation to serve your basic needs on a temporary basis.
First, you need something to support the sink. If you have torn out your old cabinets, you can often simply reuse your sink cabinet, or you can use another old cabinet or construct a simple framework out of 2x4s. For a top, attach a piece of 3/4-inch plywood to the cabinet or the wood framework, and then cut out a hole that matches the sink. As with the water heater, you can use copper or plastic pipe to temporarily extend the water lines.
For drain lines, if the temporary sink is near the drain location from the original sink, you can use plastic pipe and extend a temporary drain from the sink — just make sure it flows downhill from the sink to the drain connection. You can also simply place a large bucket under the sink outlet to catch the drain water, then dispose of it as needed. Remember that the water you collect in the bucket will still need to be poured out into a drain that leads to your sewer or septic tank — don't just dump it on the ground.
TEMPORARY TOILETS
The easiest plumbing inconvenience to overcome is the loss of a toilet — just go rent one. Portable toilets are available on a weekly or monthly rental basis, and include delivery, pickup, and, in the case of longer-term rentals, regular cleaning, emptying and other maintenance. The units are weatherproof and self-contained, and can be placed just about anywhere. For an additional cost, portable toilet units are also available with completely self-contained cold-water sinks as well. Check your Yellow Pages under "Toilets-Temporary."